Ceglie Messapica
Overview
An ancient medieval village in the province of Brindisi, Puglia, Ceglie Messapica is famous for its extra virgin olive oil and culinary traditions. The historic centre, with its narrow alleys and stone houses, retains an authentic atmosphere. The Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, with its Romanesque façade, is one of the most important monuments. Ceglie Messapica is also renowned for its masserie, ancient farmhouses transformed into agritourisms.
Food
The cuisine of Ceglie Messapica features traditional dishes with strong ties to peasant and pastoral culture. Among its specialities is Sagna Penta, a lasagna traditionally prepared for Pentecost, made with a lean ragù of fried bread and lard. The Biscotto di Ceglie, or Biscquettələ, is a pastry made with almond dough and cherry or grape jam, flavoured with lemon and, in some variations, covered with a sugar or cocoa glaze. The Panino Cegliese is an explosion of flavours, combining tuna, mortadella, provolone, and capers. Grano Stumpato, a traditional Puglian dish, is made with pounded wheat seasoned with pecorino cheese, ricotta forte, or tomato sauce. A staple dish is Fave e cicoria, a simple yet flavourful meal of peeled dried fava beans and wild chicory, enhanced with extra virgin olive oil. Orecchiette and Strascinati are among the most iconic pasta shapes in Puglian cuisine. Frisella, a twice-baked bread, is often served with tomatoes and olive oil.
Among the main courses, Marretto, a roll of lamb offal, is a local delicacy. Bombette, small pork meat rolls stuffed and cooked over the grill, are another favourite. Lamb livers, known as gnumareddi, are also popular. The desserts include U Currucl (Scarcelle), an olive oil shortcrust pastry typical of Easter, and Dolci di pasta reale, also known as bride’s sweets, prepared for Christmas or Easter with almonds and sugar.
Wine and other drinks
The winemaking tradition of Ceglie Messapica and Puglia is distinguished by its native grape varieties, both white and red. Among the whites, Verdeca is widely cultivated in Puglia, while Bianco di Alessano, though of uncertain origin, is prevalent in the Valle d’Itria. Minutolo, an aromatic white wine, has a long history dating back to the 13th century, and Maresco is a lesser-known native grape found in the region’s old vineyards.
Among the reds, Susumaniello, typical of the Brindisi province, and Malvasia, which comes in white, sweet, and passito varieties, are noteworthy. Negroamaro, a hallmark of Salento, is known for its bold flavour, while Primitivo, produced in the Manduria area, is one of the most appreciated reds of the region. Ottavianello, also known as Ottaviano, is another local black grape variety, as is Notardomenico, typical of the Brindisi area.
Points of Interest
The Ducal Castle, dating back to the Norman era, stands out with its imposing Square Tower and the three circular towers added during the Swabian and Angevin periods. Today, it houses the Emilio Notte Art Gallery and the Pietro Gatti Library. Near the castle, visitors can find the city’s ancient medieval gates. The heart of local life is Piazza Plebiscito, dominated by the Clock Tower, built in 1890 in neoclassical style. This square is the town’s main gathering place and hosts cultural events during the summer.
Among the most significant churches is the Collegiate Church of Santa Maria Assunta, built in the 16th century on an ancient pagan acropolis and later expanded in the 18th century in Baroque style. The Church of San Rocco, erected in the 15th century on the city’s highest point, is dedicated to the saint believed to have protected Ceglie from epidemics. The Church of Sant’Anna, dating back to the 9th century and built on an ancient pagan temple, holds valuable works of art.
For breathtaking views, the Belvedere Monterrone offers a scenic lookout over the city, while the Urban Gardens preserve ancient terraces with vineyards. The Montevicoli Caves, discovered in 1962, are a fascinating example of karst formations, featuring stalactites and stalagmites.
Finally, Ceglie Messapica preserves important remnants of the Messapian civilisation, with traces of defensive walls, necropolises, and archaeological finds that narrate its ancient history.
Matera
Overview
Matera, in Basilicata, is renowned for its Sassi, unique in the world and declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. These ancient cave dwellings offer a truly unique experience. The rock-hewn churches, with their frescoes, are an invaluable artistic treasure. The Ridola Civic Museum, housed in a 16th-century palace, narrates the history of the city.
Food
Matera, the city of Sassi and fragrant bread, boasts a culinary tradition deeply rooted in peasant culture, made of simple and genuine ingredients. Among its most representative specialities is the Pane di Matera IGP, a unique bread made exclusively from durum wheat semolina, following an ancient method passed down by local bakers. With its tall, arched shape, known as “a cornetto,” and its golden, crispy crust, this bread is the symbol of Matera’s food heritage.
A dish that enhances stale bread is cialledd, a humble yet flavourful recipe available in two variations: warm, ideal for cold days, and cold, perfect for summer. The dish includes potatoes, onions, Murgia herbs, and sometimes eggs, making it a nutritious meal rich in history. Another staple of local cuisine is crapiata, a hearty legume soup traditionally eaten on the first of August to mark the end of the harvest season, symbolising abundance and sharing. Made with chickpeas, fava beans, lentils, and other local legumes, it reflects the sense of community and the simple, wholesome cooking of Basilicata.
A dish strongly linked to pastoral culture is pignata, a slow-cooked stew of mutton prepared in a terracotta pot with potatoes, onions, celery, tomatoes, and salami. The slow cooking process makes the meat tender and aromatic, bringing out the flavours of the ingredients. Among the baked delights, “Ricco d’olio,” locally known as U Ricchddugghj, stands out. This tall, soft focaccia is rich in extra virgin olive oil and surprisingly topped with sugar, creating a perfect balance between sweet and savoury, making it a truly unique delicacy.
Wine and beverages
Matera’s winemaking and liquor traditions have deep roots in a culture that has enhanced the characteristics of the land to produce bold and distinctive flavours. Among the most prominent wines are Aglianico del Vulture and Greco di Matera, both showcasing the uniqueness of the Lucanian soil.
Aglianico del Vulture, a native grape grown on the volcanic slopes of Mount Vulture, is considered one of Italy’s finest red wines. With its deep ruby-red colour and complex aromas of red fruits, spices, and tobacco, it is a structured and long-lived wine, perfect for pairing with robust Lucanian dishes such as grilled meats and aged cheeses. Greco di Matera, on the other hand, is an elegant and mineral white wine produced on the clayey hills of the region. Its bouquet, rich in citrus and floral notes, makes it an excellent match for fish dishes, vegetables, and fresh cheeses. This grape variety, dating back to the Greek colonisation of southern Italy, encapsulates the brightness and freshness of Matera’s terroir.
Alongside wines, another emblematic beverage of Basilicata, highly appreciated in Matera, is Amaro Lucano, created in the late 19th century in Pisticci, near Matera. This herbal liqueur is known for its balanced blend of bitter and sweet notes, making it an excellent digestif. Its secret recipe, passed down through generations, gives Amaro Lucano a unique and enveloping taste, perfect to be enjoyed neat, over ice, or as a base for bold-flavoured cocktails.
Points of interest
Matera, a city with a millennia-old history, is famous for its Sassi, ancient cave districts carved into the rock and recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993. The two main districts, Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano, offer a one-of-a-kind landscape, where cave dwellings blend seamlessly with the natural surroundings. This urban settlement, among the oldest in Europe, is a remarkable example of human habitation that has evolved along the Appian Way since prehistoric times.
A distinctive feature of the Matera area is the presence of rock-hewn churches, which stand as extraordinary religious and artistic heritage. Found throughout the Sassi and the Murgia Materana Park, these churches were often also used for burial purposes, as evidenced by numerous tombs carved into the rock. Among the most fascinating are the Church of Santa Lucia alle Malve, adorned with splendid Byzantine frescoes, and the Madonna delle Vergini Church, featuring a Baroque façade and an interior carved into the rock.
A site of great interest is the Convicinio di Sant’Antonio, a complex of medieval rock churches that were converted into wine cellars in the 17th century. Here, precious frescoes depict religious scenes and saints, including Saint Donato and the Madonna of Picciano.
Among the underground marvels is the Palombaro Lungo, a monumental cistern beneath Piazza Vittorio Veneto, capable of holding up to five million litres of water. Built between the 16th and 17th centuries, it represents a masterpiece of hydraulic engineering, with walls coated in waterproof cocciopesto plaster.
Finally, the Murgia Materana Park offers breathtaking landscapes filled with trails, ravines, and archaeological sites. Covering approximately 8,000 hectares, it is an ideal place for hiking or cycling, allowing visitors to discover prehistoric caves, fortified farmsteads, and an exceptional biodiversity.
